I first came to Rose's during a bánh mì crawl with Alan in the spring — five places in one afternoon, all within walking distance of our front doors. Rose's was either the best or second best of the day, depending which of us you ask. It's a little spot on Dundas near Spadina, and it stuck with me.
Strictly speaking, I only review places with "bánh mì" in the name. "Viet Subs" is an imperfect translation, but the intent is unmistakable and the sandwich more than backs it up, so I let it slide.
That first visit was perfect on every level. So I brought Alex here when he was in town, and they knocked it out of the park again. This is the third visit — a quiet Sunday with Michal out of town — and I came back meaning to review it properly.
I love this place. It's literally a hole in the wall, down a short flight of stairs, but big picture windows pull in enough light to make it pleasant. Plenty of tables and chairs, and the music is quiet enough that you can hold a conversation.
The conversation stops, of course, the moment the sandwich lands. The grilled pork is juicy and full of flavour. Pâté and butter on the bread give it a smooth, almost luxurious texture. The pickled carrot and daikon are bright without taking over. Everything is a win — except, this time, the bun. I can't really complain, having shown up at five on a Sunday, but it was chewy where it should have been light, less fresh than on my first two visits. They keep the buns warm in a toaster oven, and late in the day it catches up with the loaf. A timing problem more than a kitchen one — but I taste what I taste.
The sandwich takes a genuinely long time to make, which is its own kind of promise. Order, sit down, and let it happen — ten minutes when they're busy. Thou shalt not rush the making of a bánh mì.
So — is it better than Bloor Street? Maybe. Two of the three times I've been here I'd have said yes without blinking. Today, with that not-quite-there bun, I have to hold back by a hair, and it makes me a little sad, because I watch them working the counter and have real respect for what they're doing. Rose and her team are sandwich artists — but artistry is table stakes if you want to beat what you can get on Bloor Street. So let's call Rose's as good as Bloor Street, for the time being. They'll pass it the next time I catch them with a fresh loaf.
Verdict: As Good As Bloor Street. On a good day maybe better.
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